
I still am in shock of how fast these past 12 days went with my mom and how much fun we had together. Being my mom’s first trip outside of the United States in 37 years I felt a pressure to perform, and show her not only a great time, but the Israel I know and love. She left the planning in my hands, which in retrospect was great, and allowed me full control to lead her in the right direction. If you had asked any of my friends whether or not this would be ideal, they would have said with my sense of direction we were either going to end up in Lebanon or Syria. However, I made our first stop Jerusalem for four days at a great little hotel on Agrippas Street, in the heart of Downtown Jerusalem right off of Kind George and near Ben Yehuda. Our room was wonderful and it had a large balcony that looked out onto the busy street and allowed in all the smells of fresh produce and perfume that got carried away with the wind. Our first adventure had to be getting all of our luggage from the airport and into our hotel. Being a Cohon, a woman, and now an Israeli, I do not pack light, never have and never will. My mother of course taught me almost everything I know about not packing light, and I still remember our trips to the municipal pool during the summer months, where before we would leave the house we had to have windbreakers, raincoats, ponchos, umbrellas, sweaters, and of course the always important and necessary two large coolers filled with more ice packs than actual food or beverages. I remember my mother, brother, and I struggling to carry all of our precious goods into the pool complex and then struggling to find a big enough space on the grass to put it all. I hope my mom and brother are both laughing when they read this because it’s a memory I had forgotten until I had to carry 3 suitcases, 2 backpacks, and 1 carry-on up two flights of stairs. My mom and I were in Jerusalem from Wednesday, when she arrived, until Sunday afternoon.
After unpacking some of our things and exploring our hotel we decided to take a walk around our neighborhood and get accustomed with the area. Being my third or fourth time in Jerusalem, I felt more comfortable with the lay of the land, but had to compete with my innate horrible sense of direction the majority of our trip. We ended up making our way to the Old City and getting lost in the cradle of civilization. We explored Rampart’s walk, a walk along the walled periphery of the Old City and then found ourselves in the Muslim Quarter near the Damascus Gate. My mom was blown away by the hustle and bustle of the Old City and was slowly starting to be introduced to the Israel I know and love. The Israel that has a synagogue, next to a mosque, next to a church, next to an Armenian tavern, in a mere 5 mile radius. Before sunset, we found ourselves at the Western Wall and I told my mom the tradition of writing a note to put in the wall. Being a true Cohon my mom wrote about 20 notes and handed 10 to me to help her put into the wall. So, family, friends, and dear loved ones, if you are reading this you probably had a note written for you by my mom that is now residing in the Western Wall. You can thank her, not me, although I might have stuffed half of you into some tiny cracks. I wanted to make sure we got back to our Hotel before the fasting began, and I told my mom, because this was Erev Yom Kipper (the evening before Yom Kippur) everything was going to close down and the Jewish fast would begin that would last 25 hours until the next day.
I thought I knew where I was going (famous last words) but eventually got us lost. We had to take our first taxi in Israel, which brings me to our second adventure, Israeli cab drivers. I told my mom in Israel anything can happen and usually does. Our cab driver, after greeting us and learning that we were from the USA, gave me and my mom a necklace, and then took us on a joy ride to his brother’s store to meet his entire family. I am sure my mom was more scared than she alluded to, but I sat comfortably in my passenger seat thinking, “Yep, this makes perfect sense, we got in a cab to go to our hotel, and instead we’re going where our driver wants to go”. After getting to our destination and getting out of the cab we made our way to a small shop, filled with Jewish artwork and souvenirs. Our cab driver then introduced us to his brothers and offered my mom and I to stay and have coffee with them. We were luckily saved by my mom’s jet lag and after some more talking (both in English and Hebrew) we realized we could be possibly related; our cab driver finally dropped us off at our hotel and I now had two family members in Jerusalem.
I made sure to bring enough food with me for two days, for her and me, and even though our first meals were in the Hotel, I am so glad I was in Jerusalem to experience such an amazing holiday. On Yom Kippur, My mom and I spent the day relaxing and walking around the city. It was amazing to see no one driving on the roads and everyone walking in the middle of the street. Jerusalem was completely shut down and the city has never looked more beautiful. I knew the Arab Quarters in the Old City would be open, but I was surprised by the number of tourists and people buying things and walking around. My mom had her first bargaining experience in the Muslim Quarter, and we were able to get such nice gifts for my family and friends. By the time we realized how long we had been shopping for, we found ourselves at the Western Wall again, right before the end of Yom Kippur. Being at the Kotel on Erez Yom Kippur and Yom Kippur is something I will always remember. There were over a thousand religious people at the wall from all over the world praying and singing. At one point it felt as if everyone was chanting the same thing and I have never been so moved by religion in this way.
After the fast was broken we followed the crowd out of the old city and into the streets of Jerusalem. By this point we knew are way well enough around the city not to get lost and I was amazed with how alive everyone was in the streets. People had told me that Jerusalem would be really boring with nothing to do for the holidays but I found it to be incredible, and the night of breaking the fast my mom and I couldn’t fall asleep until five in the morning because there was so much noise and action in the streets. On Friday, we took a guided tour of Jerusalem and saw all of the major and important sights. We were also able to see Yad Vashem and got back to our hotel after eight hours of strenuous sightseeing. Saturday was also a full day of excitement as we took another tour, but this time to the Dead Sea and Masada. It was very relaxing taking a cable car all the way to the top of the mountain, instead of hiking it up at 5:30 in the morning, and I am so glad my mom got to see one of my favorite places in all of Israel. Then after Masada we made our way to the Ein Gedi Spa, and got to not only float in the Dead Sea but give ourselves a full mud treatment. We met a really cute little girl who was in Jerusalem with her mom and her mom’s friend. We had a great time with our time guide and even got to stop at the Ahava Center, for some serious shopping. We got back to our hotel around 6 and prepared to go out for our first and last meal in Jerusalem.
When I was picking the restaurant, I really had no idea where to go or what would be nice for my mom’s first meal in Israel. I had randomly found this small restaurant called “Little Jerusalem” which was located within minutes from our hotel and supposedly in an old house donated to the Israeli Museum. I saw they had Israeli folk music, so my mom and I decided to go and give it a chance. Little Jerusalem is now one of my favorite restaurants in Israel and was one of the best dinners my mother and I had in Israel together. First the ambience of the restaurant was breath taking and we ended up getting seated right by the four piece orchestra that was playing that night. If Christian, Felicia, Peter, or Ian are reading this you would have loved this restaurant, and if you come to Israel I promise to take you there! The food was also amazing and we learned that the house belonged to a painter Anna Ticho who donated the house to the Israeli Museum after she died. The exhibition at the time we came to the restaurant was entitled “Women with a Camera” and I feel that perfectly describes who I have been on this journey. My mom and I ended up having a three and a half hour dinner that night and I felt so happy to not only be in Israel but have my mom there to share in this experience. The trip truly could not have been any better, and I felt so blessed to be able to get to share this time with her.
On Sunday, we ended up going to the Israeli Museum to see more of Anna Ticho’s art work but due to construction a lot of the museum was closed. However, we did get to see the Shrine of the Book which holds the Dead Sea Scrolls. I really liked the Israel Museum and plan on going back there when I have more time. After our afternoon adventure, we checked out of our beloved Palatin Hotel said a sad farewell to Jerusalem and boarded a Sherut to Tel Aviv.
Getting to Tel Aviv was a lot easier said than done, and with our entire luggage, it took some hard bargaining to find a taxi that would not rip us off and take us to our hotel. Our first night in Tel Aviv we walked to the nearby Dizengoff Circle and ate at a great Indian restaurant called Tandori, Our hotel was called Adiv Hotel on Mendeli just off of Hayarkon and Ben Yehuda, It was right across the street from the Beach and my mom and I took full opportunity of that. On Monday, we went to Hod Hasharon to meet up with my friend Yamit at her home and have my mom meet her family. From there we all went to Yamit’s aunts home in a Moshav in Carmiel, near Haifa, and celebrate Succot with her whole family. It was great seeing the same faces from Rosh Hashana, and Yamit’s family have really taken me in like their own. My mom and I ended up sleeping over in Yamit’s cousin’s room after a long night of eating, singing, and drinking. The next day was more food and we even went to the beach and got to Kayak and swim in the water. I really love Yamit’s family and especially love her sister Noa, cousins Enon and Eleanor, who is a certified sky diving instructor, and the rest or her father’s eight brothers and five sisters. When we got back to Tel Aviv Tuesday night, my mom and I were exhausted but had a great Succot.
We decided to stay in Tel Aviv until Thursday and ended up going to the beach Wednesday and taking a tour bus around Jaffa, Rothschild Street, and other major Tel Aviv landmarks. I really fell in love with Tel Aviv after this trip and realized why people in Israel love it so much and want to live there. Tel Aviv is a city that is truly alive and full of energy that is contagious to be around. In Tel Aviv, you can find the cutest stores and littlest boutiques tucked behind tiny alleyways and street corners, My mom and I also got to walk around Shenkin Street, Nahalyat Binyamina, and Allenby. I really cannot say what I liked best and overall just had a great time with her. On Thursday, we went to Old Jaffa and I got to go to the Flea Market and walk around the city, There was a wishing bridge that we both made wishes on, and even a little street fair with crafts you could buy. We had decided to rent a car for the remainder of our trip and I cannot tell you how proud of my mom I am for being able to drive in Israel and managing to not get ourselves too lost or killed on the highway.
The road to Haifa was long and straight. We had plans Thursday night to have dinner with my Rotary Host Sponsor and his wife, Zvi and Pamela Fridman, and not only got to Haifa but managed to make our way to their house unscathed. Zvi and Pamela took us to one of my favorite places, CafĂ© Louis, who my friend Yasmin introduced me too, and we had a great time. After dinner, my mom and I made our way up the mountain to Haifa University, for my mom’s first look at my school and my new dorm. We had decided that she was going to stay with me in the dorms instead of at a hotel, and when I asked her is that would be okay, she said, “Of course! I’m not high maintenance, as long as we both have somewhere to sleep and there are no cockroaches, I have no problem staying in the dorms”. Of course she had to say cockroaches, because a fact of life here at Haifa University is that you share your living space sometimes with the cockroaches, Their kind of like your neighbors, you see them, you don’t really hang out with them, and if need be you’ll, kill them, and hide their bodies in the toilet (just kidding about that last part) but I just nodded my head and smiled.
When I got back to the University, I also found out I needed to move out of my previous dorm and into a new one in Brittania. My mom and I spent all Friday moving out of my dorm and having coffee with a few of my Israeli neighbors. On Saturday, we had breakfast with my friends the Furani’s and my mom got to meet them and have a typical Arab breakfast. Then we ended up going to Kibbutz Michael near Haifa with Zvi and visiting his sister Heidi for lunch. Zvi is such an amazing person and so much more than a Rotary Sponsor to me, He has been such a good friend and someone I care for and really admire. He and his sister came to Israel when they were 18 and lived on Kibbutz Michael together. Heidi never left, but Zvi left when he decided to go to Physiotherapy School. I am so glad my mom got to see a real Kibbutz and really liked Kibbutz life. After touring around the Kibbutz, Zvi and I shared a very bonding moment and ended up having to change his flat tire together outside of the Kibbutz. I am proud to report I have changed a tire in Israel, and although it wasn’t up to par with the Indianapolis 500 standards, I think I did pretty well.
Later that night my mom and I met up with Hava and Mordecai for her last dinner and we went to one of the most amazing restaurants in Haifa. It was called 24 Hanamal Street and was located in downtown Haifa next to the port. The restaurant was one of the best in Israel and we ordered wine, appetizers, entrees, and deserts that rivaled some of the best restaurants Hava and Mordecai said they tried in their most recent trip to Spain. Having my mom’s last day be filled with so much love, family, and the people that matter the most to me since I have been in Israel was absolutely wonderful. On our way to the airport together, I felt so lucky to have been able to spend this quality time with my mom and show her, what I hoped would be a great two weeks in Israel. Although I am sad she is gone, I am so excited to show the rest of my family around and hope my dad, brother, and grandmother will come and visit.
I just found out my cousin Georgia took my advice and signed herself up for Birthright. She will be here January 5 – 16th, which is also around the same time my friend Katie from San Diego booked her ticket to come out and visit me. I cannot wait to see Katie and Georgia and show them around Haifa and the Israel I love.
This week I am starting classes and doing a lot with the Rotary. I am giving two presentations this week and also attending a Rotary party in Tel Aviv with the Ambassador to Germany. It’s starting to get colder in Haifa and I hope the weather will continue to be as sunny and beautiful as it has been these past three months. I already started my internship at Isha L Isha and hope to continue doing work there and also with Best Buddies and the Triumph Project. I know this is an extremely long entry, so extra points go to those of you who actually sat down and read it all, to my most adoring blog fans, I LOVE YOU! I promise to write more about this week and give you another update soon.
I forgot to mention one last thing, for Simcha Torah I went to a reformed synagogue with a few friends and danced with the Torah! It was the first time I think I ever touched a Torah and it was so much fun. Israel is great, and hopefully it still continues to be a place of excitement and adventure for me. I love you and miss you
all so much!
Lots of love,
Annelise